Oaxaca’s iconic painter of fantasies has more on his mind than canvases, brushes & oil. We spent an exhausting weekend celebrating food, music, love, life, art, and fisherman’s balls.
The Wild Passions of Guillermo Olguín
12 Hours of Mezcal at La Popular
It’s 2:30 p.m., and Guillermo Olguín is late. Parking his shambolic van took some time. But La Popular, the restaurant in Centro favored by artists, is buzzing with argument and laughter in the turmeric Oaxacan light. I am sitting under a massive, unhinged mural he painted. On the adjacent wall, a gleaming artwork brushed in gold with a meandering black outline of a hypnotic face stares at me. He traded both for a lifetime of mezcal and good times at his favorite table. It’s the first time we’ve met, but we are brothers already—travelers of mad mythology, separated by the Southern border, united by a lust for life. He is 6 feet 4 inches and a thousand stories tall. A hyperreal, raconteur lord of untamed passions.
The Wild Passions of Guillermo Olguín
It’s 2:30 p.m., and Guillermo Olguín is late. Parking his shambolic van took some time. But La Popular, the restaurant in Centro favored by artists, is buzzing with argument and laughter in the turmeric Oaxacan light.
AN ICONIC IMAGE, LOST & FOUND
I recently retrieved a lost picture of indigenous rapper Frank Waln that was used as the basis of the powerful poster created by artist Shepard Fairey for our Rebel Music series.
Dancing With Herself
We wait for Miss X outside a hotel in the blistering heat pouring down on Taksim Square in the summer of 2008. She was to arrive at noon…
Photographing a Living Legend of Music
Chances are you’ve never heard of Ustad Naseeruddin Saami, one of the greatest singers alive and the last living vocal practitioner of an ancient 49-note microtonal Surti scale.
The Lost and Found Magic of Shekhawati
Shekhawati is a bewitchingly beautiful region of the that desert in Northern Rajasthan, India, steeped in thousands of years of history.
The Redemptive Joy of Collective Healing
The month of Muharram is of special significance to Shia Muslims around the world & a time of mourning & reflection on the tragic events of the Battle of Karbala in 680 CE…
LOVE IS MAD!
“Madly” achieves something rare for a film about such an abused subject- jagged, juxtaposed and wildly divergent views of love from around the world…
AN AMERICAN PRAYER
My dream is in peril. Like millions of other young people in the world who used to crave our country, my American Dream was intoxicating.
Once These Hands Fought Terror
I had large calcium oxalate stones in my left kidney and bladder as a teenager. The renal colic pain that wracked my body was biblical and sometimes lasted for days.
Mother’s Restless Hands
Now deep in the forest of Alzheimer’s, mother doesn’t like to be told to rest, doesn’t like confinement even at age eighty-seven.
The Long Slow Goodbye
My mother wouldn’t let go of my hand. Six years ago, at Delhi airport, I put her on a flight to Heathrow, to my sister, a doctor, who would get her properly diagnosed.
Hallucinating the Future
“It’s 1969, Lucknow, India. A woman in her thirties wearing a sari is smoking a hand-rolled cigarette filled with Prince Henry tobacco.